In a large bowl, combine besan, hing, turmeric, red chili powder, salt, cumin seeds, yogurt, oil, and kasuri methi. For the traditional version, add ginger-garlic paste and optional baking soda.
Knead into a stiff but pliable dough, adding 1 to 2 tablespoons water only if needed. For the Jain version, add an extra pinch of hing and 1 teaspoon oil instead of ginger-garlic paste.
Divide into 4 to 6 portions. Roll each into a 10-inch thin cylinder with light hands.
Boil enough water in a wide pan. Add the rolls, cover, and boil on medium heat for 10 to 15 minutes until they float to the surface.
Drain the gattas, reserving the cooking water. Cool slightly, then cut each cylinder into 10 to 12 rounds.
Make the gravy
Heat oil in a pan. Add hing and cumin seeds. When they crackle, add grated raw papaya (Jain version) or sauté onion-ginger-garlic paste until light golden (traditional version).
Stir in turmeric, red chili powder, coriander powder, garam masala, and 1 cup reserved gatta cooking water. Cook 3 to 4 minutes.
Lower the heat. Slowly whisk in room-temperature yogurt, stirring constantly until the gravy comes to a gentle boil and oil shimmers at the edges.
Add the cut gatta pieces, salt, green chili, and kasuri methi. Cover and simmer on medium-low for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the gattas are tender and flavors meld.
Serve
Garnish with cilantro and extra green chili if desired. Serve hot with roti, paratha, or steamed rice.
Notes
Keep yogurt at room temperature and whisk smooth before adding to prevent splitting.Boil gattas until they float; under-boiled rolls turn chewy.Gattas can be boiled and cut up to 1 day ahead; re-boil 2 to 3 minutes before adding to gravy.Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator up to 2 days. Reheat gently on the stove with a splash of warm water if the gravy thickens.For dairy-free, use unsweetened plant yogurt and add slowly on low heat.