Rinse the toor dal until the water is mostly clear. No long soak needed for a cooker.

Add dal, 3 cups water, 1/4 teaspoon turmeric, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon ghee to the cooker.

Pressure cook 4 whistles on medium heat, then rest 10 minutes before opening. Instant Pot: 10 minutes on high pressure, 10 minutes natural release. Stovetop pot: simmer covered 35 to 40 minutes, adding hot water if it looks dry.

Mash until almost smooth. A few soft bits are fine. You should not see whole grains. If it is stiff, add hot water a splash at a time.

Heat 1 tablespoon ghee in the pan over medium heat. Add 1 teaspoon cumin seeds. Let them sizzle 20 seconds. Add the pinch of hing.

Add onion if using. Cook 3 to 4 minutes until soft and the raw smell is gone.

Add 8 sliced garlic cloves, ginger, and green chilli. Cook 30 to 45 seconds until the garlic edges turn pale gold. Pull the pan if they darken faster than that.

Add tomato. Cook 2 to 3 minutes until it softens and the oil looks a little separated.

Add coriander, turmeric, Kashmiri chilli, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Stir 20 seconds.

Pour in the mashed dal. Add 1/2 cup hot water. Simmer 4 to 5 minutes on medium-low, stirring so it does not stick. Taste for salt. The dal should pour slowly from a ladle, not sit in a lump.

Stir in garam masala, kasuri methi if using, and lemon. Turn off the heat. Scatter cilantro.

Spoon the dal into a warm serving bowl.

Heat 2 tablespoons ghee in a small tadka pan until it looks loose and hot. Add 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds, 8 sliced garlic cloves, dried red chillies, and a pinch of hing.

Cook 20 to 30 seconds until the garlic is gold and the chillies darken. Take the pan off the heat. Stir in 1/4 teaspoon Kashmiri chilli.

Pour over the dal. You should hear a short sizzle. Do not stir it all the way in. Leave some garlic sitting on top. Serve with rice or roti.