Rinse the toor dal (and moong, if using) until the water is mostly clear. No long soak needed for a cooker.

Add dal, 3 cups water, 1/4 teaspoon turmeric, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon ghee to the cooker.

Pressure cook 4 whistles on medium heat, then rest 10 minutes before opening. Instant Pot: 10 minutes on high pressure, 10 minutes natural release. Stovetop pot: simmer covered 35 to 40 minutes, adding hot water if it looks dry.

Mash until almost smooth. A few soft bits are fine. You should not see whole grains. If it is stiff, add hot water a splash at a time.

Pluck the leaves from thick stalks. Rinse in a big bowl of water twice. Drain well. Chop.

Taste a raw leaf. If it is harshly bitter, toss the chopped leaves with 1/2 teaspoon salt, rest 10 minutes, squeeze, and rinse. Skip this if the leaves taste mild.

Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons ghee in the pan over medium heat. Add cumin and mustard. Let them sizzle 20 seconds. Add the pinch of hing and curry leaves if using.

Add onion if using. Cook 3 to 4 minutes until soft and the raw smell is gone.

Add garlic, ginger, and green chilli. Cook 30 seconds until the garlic edges turn pale gold. Pull the pan if they darken faster than that.

Add tomato. Cook 2 to 3 minutes until it softens and the oil looks a little separated.

Add the chopped methi. Stir 2 minutes until the leaves collapse and look wet. Add Kashmiri chilli if using.

Pour in the mashed dal. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 cup hot water. Simmer 2 to 3 minutes on medium-low, stirring so it does not stick. Taste for salt. The dal should pour slowly from a ladle.

Stir in garam masala and lemon. Turn off the heat. Scatter cilantro. Serve with rice or roti.